Puttering through Phnom Penh’s unruly traffic in the back of a tuk-tuk, or strolling up and down its bustling waterfront promenade, it is hard to fathom that less than 50 years have passed since this vibrant city was reduced to a ghost town by the Khmer Rouge.
While it took Pol Pot and his troops a mere 48 hours to march around two million people out of Cambodia’s capital and largest city – and into an agrarian dystopia – in 1975, it has taken Phnom Penh decades to reclaim its soul.
Forsaken and forlorn for close to four years, the modern cityscape that has arisen since survivors of the democide started returning is a testament to the resilience of an entire nation.
A Historical Context
Owing to its strategic location at the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Bassac rivers, Phnom Penh has been a cultural, economic and political hub for centuries.
The city’s origins date back to 1372, when – as legend has it – an elderly woman named Penh sighted a tree trunk floating down the mighty Mekong. With the help of other villagers, the tree trunk was pulled ashore.
To the astonishment of all those present, a hole in the trunk contained four Buddha statues. Grandma Penh, who purportedly had deep pockets, saw to it that a shrine was built for the statues on a nearby hill (phnom). Several decades later, the shrine was replaced by the iconic and timeless temple of Wat Phnom.
Following the collapse of the Khmer Empire and the abandonment of its ancient capital at Angkor, Phnom Penh became the new seat of government in 1434.
The city fell in and out of prominence as the centuries came and went, occasionally playing second fiddle to other royal capitals for periods of time.
The Late Modern Period
When Cambodia became part of French Indochina in 1863, efforts were made to equip Phnom Penh of all the amenities befitting a colonial stronghold. Roads, schools, hospitals, and administrative offices were built, furnishing the city with its current layout and hallmark architecture.
However, the shift towards urbanisation was less successful than, say, in neighbouring Vietnam and traditional social structures were largely maintained across the Cambodian countryside.
Cambodia gained independence from France in 1953 and would prosper under the leadership of young king Norodom Sihanouk. During his benign rule, the “Kingdom of Wonder” experienced close to two decades of fragile peace while much of Southeast Asia was in a state of upheaval.
An avid musician and songwriter, Sihanouk also fostered the development of homegrown popular music. The well-liked king’s readiness in these matters gave rise to a thriving music scene based in Phnom Penh.
During the 1960s and early 1970s, local musicians created a unique sound by combining traditional music forms with rock and pop influences inspired by imported records from all over the world. The city was swinging, quite literally, and the future looking bright.
War and Genocide
Sadly, this golden era was short-lived. Sihanouk was ousted by a U.S.-supported military coup in 1970, thus signifying the end of Cambodian neutrality in the Vietnam War.
U.S. and South Vietnamese ground troops started penetrating Cambodia’s eastern border in a bid to rid the area of its numerous Viet Cong sanctuaries. This forced the Vietnamese guerillas deeper into Cambodian territory, where they came into contact with the Khmer Rouge.
Initially used to describe his country’s communist-led dissidents, the name Khmer Rouge (Khmers rouges) was first coined by King Sihanouk in the swinging 60s. While the post-independence buzz prevailed in Phnom Penh, an army was slowly being raised in the forests of eastern Cambodia.
By the time Sihanouk was removed from power, this army was powerful enough to engage in civil war. Despite a massive, U.S.-led bombing campaign, ironically named “Operation Freedom Deal”, the Khmer Rouge captured Phnom Penh and overthrew the so-called Khmer Republic on April 17, 1975.
The totalitarian regime with which it was replaced proved repressive beyond imagination. Torture, summary executions of political opponents, ethnic cleansing – almost overnight, heinous crimes against humanity became run-of-the-mill exercises in Democratic Kampuchea.
The mass violence perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge cost the lives of anywhere between 1.5 and 3 million of their fellow countrymen. According to the highest estimates, up to one-third of Cambodia’s total population was wiped out in less than four years.
Moreover, strained relationships with Vietnam frequently escalated into armed conflict during this period. In late December 1978, when the tensions had reached their boiling point, Vietnam launched a full-scale invasion of Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge was overrun in less than a fortnight, and a pro-Vietnamese government was established in Phnom Penh.
Another Golden Era?
From their sanctioned hideout along the hilly borderline with Thailand, the Khmer Rouge regularly carried out insurgencies into the new People’s Republic of Kampuchea. With the country officially still at war, many Cambodians opted for a return to the relative safety of the capital.
These repopulation streams did not cease after a peace treaty was signed in 1989 and the monarchy restored in 1993. On the contrary, provisory rebuilding efforts had progressed into rapid urbanisation by the turn of the century.
The past two decades have been distinguished by unprecedented economic growth and staggering urban expansion. Bolstered by revenues obtained through the likes of garment manufacturing, real estate development, and tourism, Phnom Penh’s growing middle class and expat communities have given the city the cosmopolitan atmosphere of a modern Asian capital.
As was the case in the golden era, those swinging 60s, international trends are keenly monitored and reproduced with a dose of local flavour – which brings us to the beers!
The Craft Beer Scene
Beer was not brewed on a commercial scale in Phnom Penh until the dawn of the 20th century, when demand among the sizeable European community as well as local elites was on the rise.
One of the earliest notable breweries to open a production facility in the city was the Brasseries & Glacieres d’Indochine (BGI), a dominant regional player of yesteryear. Founded in Saigon in the 1920s, the BGI range remained popular in the post-colonial era and the brewery’s presence was instrumental in the development of Cambodian beer culture.
As it stands, the national beer market is dominated by three brands: Anchor, Angkor, and Cambodia. However, this has not prevented an animated craft beer scene from taking hold in Phnom Penh. Over the course of the past 15 years or so, some 20 microbreweries have been established by locals and expats alike.
In many cases, the passionate brewers behind them started off by setting up shop in the spare room – garages are hard to come by in Phnom Penh! – and producing batches big enough to share at one or two bars. The results of their tinkering can be described as, arguably, some of the best brews in South East Asia.
A variety of venues, ranging from intimate taprooms to larger craft beer bars, can be found all over the city. With the aid of this Craft Beer Guide to Phnom Penh, you will know exactly where to go!
Phnom Penh Craft Beer Directory
Click on any venue listed below for more information, or scroll through the rest of this page to review Beer Asia’s directory of craft beer venues in Phnom Penh (in no particular order):
Craft Beer Venues in Phnom Penh
Kingdom Breweries
To kick things off, one of the pioneers of the Phnom Penh craft beer scene. Kingdom Breweries was founded in 2009 and set the stage for the revolution that was to follow. Although initially focused on the production of premium lagers, the brewery laid the groundwork for other, more adventurous brewers to start experimenting with different styles.
Since then, Kingdom’s own range has widened to include an IPA, Mango IPA, Belgian Wit, and several seasonal beers. These brews can be sampled at the taproom situated above the brewery itself or at a number of bars and bottle stores around town.
- Address
1748 National Road 5, Phnom Penh - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 23 430 180
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Follow on Instagram
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
8AM – 5PM daily
Riel Brewing & Distilling
One of the most innovative breweries on the Phnom Penh scene, Riel Brewing & Distilling is constantly experimenting with new styles. Founded by two American brewers, its dynamic range of ales, stouts, and sours is available at the brewery’s taproom – a certified happy place for cat lovers – and numerous other venues.
For an in-depth look into Riel’s vision and growing pains, check out an old interview with co-founder Andrew Strugnell.
- Address
Street 478, Phnom Penh 120109 - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 95 997 128
- Like on Facebook
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
Tuesday – Sunday: 1PM – 11PM
Monday: Closed
Botanico Brewing Company
Next up, another front runner in the revolution. Established in 2013 by a small group of likeminded foreigners who had found their way to Phnom Penh, Cerevisia Craft Brewery stood for quality, consistency, inclusiveness, and innovation for over a decade. In that respect, little has changed since the brewery was rechristened Botanico Brewing Company.
The Botanico Craft Beer Garden has long been a thriving community hub where art exhibitions, charity events, workshops for adults and children alike, and countless live music nights have been held.
Moreover, the beer garden’s lush setup acts as a sparse sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of the encircling city. Needless to say, the freshness of the beers on tap – all of which are brewed on site – only adds to the charm.
The Botanico (Cerevisia) range consists of 15 brews, served at more than 20 venues across Phnom Penh.
- Address
9B St 29, Phnom Penh - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 77 943 135
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Follow on Instagram
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
Sunday – Thursday: 8AM – 10PM
Friday – Saturday: 8AM – 11:30PM
Stone Head Brewery
Stone Head was founded by a group of young Cambodian, Thai, and Chinese beer lovers dedicated to the development of beers capable of capturing the essence of Asia.
Using meticulously chosen ingredients from far and wide, the brewery’s range currently consists of 11 brews. Among them, a Lemongrass Kolsch, Coconut Cream Ale, and Butterfly Wheat – all available, and more, at the Stone Head taproom and over 50 bars, restaurants, and retail outlets nationwide.
- Address
236 Street Betong (72P), Rongchak Village, Phnom Penh - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 16 250 702
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Follow on Instagram
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
3:30PM – 10:30PM daily
Himawari Microbrewery
Located in the lobby of the 5-star Himawari Hotel Apartments, the Himawari Microbrewery has been preparing small batches – primarily for in-house consumption – for over a decade.
Whether paired with dishes from the hotel’s Oyster Restaurant or enjoyed out on the breezy Garden Terrace overlooking the Mekong, the whole Himawari experience is bound to put a smile on your face.
Eager as ever to experiment with unique flavours, Himawari has recently launched the Osmanthus Pilsner (September 2024) and Pink Guava Gose (August 2024). Its core selection includes a golden ale, sweet stout, and an American-style IPA.
- Address
Chaktomuk Conference Garden, 313 Preah Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 23 214 555
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
12PM – 10:30PM daily
Sak Pub
One of the smaller microbreweries on this list, Sak Pub is fully owned and staffed by Khmer – somewhat of an anomaly on the Phnom Penh craft beer scene.
Up to a dozen Cambodian craft beers are available on tap, including the brewpub’s own range as well as those concocted by the likes of Kingdom and Botanico (Cerevisia), while imports such as MixTape come by the bottle or can. An array of pizzas and simple yet tasty bites are served as well.
For those of you who find themselves getting annoyed with the rate at which beer loses its chill in tropical conditions, it is worthwhile noting that this small venue is suitably air-conditioned for slow sipping!
- Address
S049, Street 51, small alley behind Patio Hotel, Phnom Penh 12302 - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 10 737 930
- Like on Facebook
- Follow on Instagram
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
3:30PM – 11:30PM daily
Prince Brewing
Branded as “Cambodia’s Finest Craft Beer Entertainment Lounge”, Prince Brewing is committed to creating memorable dining experiences further enhanced by world class entertainment.
The wide variety of dishes served, from Khmer specialities to Western staples, are prepared using fresh, locally sourced ingredients only. This standard is also applied to the venue’s signature cocktails and its very own range of craft beers.
There are currently five different Prince brews in circulation, including the Mekong Breeze Lager, Angkor Sun Session IPA, and the Phnom Penh Eclipse Stout. These beers are also sold by the bottle or can in various bars and convenience stores.
As far as the entertainment factor goes, Prince Brewing hosts live music performances on a nightly basis – acoustic sessions at the start of the week and full live bands from Thursday through Sunday.
Furthermore, a section of the spacious restaurant and brewpub has been fitted with dart boards and other bar games. Last but not least, the venue also boasts an open air rooftop bar and terrace for those contented with entertaining themselves or one another.
- Address
86E0 Samdach Sothearos Blvd (3), Phnom Penh - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 99 588 161
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Follow on Instagram
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
11AM – 1AM daily
Hops Craft Beer Garden & Restaurant
Inspired by German beer culture and in full compliance with the German Purity Laws of 1516, Hops operates a total of four beer gardens in Phnom Penh.
In addition to the brewery’s grand central taproom, the German beer garden concept – complete with a variety of German dishes and cold cuts – has also been applied to Hops Villa, Hops Eden Garden, and Hops Boeung Snor.
- Address
No. 17 Street 228, Phnom Penh 12207 - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 93 999 014
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
11AM – 1AM daily
The Chug Lab
Without a shred of a doubt, Phnom Penh’s only Aussie-owned, heavy metal-themed nanobrewery!
The Chug Bar started off as a small speakeasy shortly before the pandemic hit and thus remained closed to the public during its maiden years.
Even so, this did not prevent its proprietor and a few of his friends from gathering there every so often to enjoy a few home-brewed beers and listen to some tunes. In the process, brewing skills were refined and an unapologetic approach to hospitality honed. Now that The Chug Lab’s doors are open four nights a week, we can all appreciate its distinctiveness.
There are only three beers on tap, the music is always loud, and the joint will probably be closed for the night if there’s a metal gig taking place elsewhere in Phnom Penh. What you see is what you get, and that’s exactly what makes The Chug Lab so endearing.
- Address
Street 376, House #25A, BKK3, Phnom Penh 12304 - Open location on Google Maps
- Like on Facebook
- Check-in on Untappd
- Operating hours
Wednesday – Saturday: 6PM – 11:30PM
Sunday – Tuesday: Closed
Embargo
Embargo is not the easiest place to find. Tucked away in a maze of alleys and covered with graffiti, its patrons are relieved of their struggles when they come across a ‘You Made It’ sign.
A rotating selection of 8 craft beers on tap and a wider range of bottles and cans are available once you get there. The vast majority of these brews are of Asian origin, with the likes of Riel, Projekt Brews, and Heart of Darkness on offer – among others, of course!
While Embargo does not have a kitchen of its own, outside food is allowed and the bar staff will happily place an order at one of the neighbouring restaurants on your behalf. They wouldn’t want you to get lost again, now would they?!
- Address
BKK1 (near SaKaNa LaB), 036 Rue Pasteur No. 51, Phnom Penh 12302 - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 95 460 356
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Follow on Instagram
- Operating hours
Monday – Saturday: 4PM – 11PM
Sunday : Closed
The Box Office
Not only does The Box Office pour an impressive selection of Cambodian and regional beers, they also do a proper fry-up. We’re talking the works: Full English breakfast, fish and chips, a traditional Sunday roast, and pies – nuff pies!
On the beer front, no less than a dozen Cambodian brews are available on tap. The current line-up includes a pair of Riel and Botanico (Cerevisia) brews, and is also represented by breweries such as Fuzzy Logic from Siem Reap and Projekt Brews from Kampot.
The bottled and canned selection is a mixture of local and imported craft brews in combination with more mainstream beers. A smaller variety of ciders and meads can also be found in this treasure trove.
To top it off, The Box Office regularly organises open mic, comedy, and quiz nights. For the lack of an official Instagram page, a fan page has been dedicated to the pub’s mascot and overlord…
- Address
8E0 Long Nget St. (258), Phnom Penh 12207 - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 12 831 950
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Operating hours
Monday – Saturday: 7:30AM – 12AM
Sunday : 7:30AM – 10PM
CRAFT on Palace Lane
CRAFT is the primary outlet under the stewardship of Palace Lane Concepts, a F&B group that has set up five unique restaurant brands in Phnom Penh.
The various Western BBQ dishes, burgers, and pizzas served in this sleek venue can be paired with a solid assortment of Cambodian craft beers, such as Botanico (Cerevisia), Riel, Fuzzy Logic, and Projekt Brews.
For those keen to discover some local talent and get their groove on, live music performances are held on Friday and Saturday nights.
- Address
82E0 Street 244, Phnom Penh - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 69 248 606
- Visit Website
- Like on Facebook
- Operating hours
11AM – 1AM daily
Duplex Belgian Tavern
The name says it all, really. Duplex stocks an extensive selection of Belgian beers by the bottle, including La Chouffe, Brugse Zot, St. Bernardus, Maredsous, Tripel Karmeliet, and Vedett – just to name a few! Be aware, however, that these Belgian imports are rather pricey compared to their locally brewed counterparts.
A number of Belgian-inspired dishes are served too, most notably a stew prepared with Trappist beer. Should these clash with your dietary requirements, you may consider signing up for one of Duplex’s weekly Kizomba and Salsa workshops – held on Wednesdays and Fridays, respectively – instead.
- Address
#3 Street 278, Phnom Penh - Open location on Google Maps
- Call +855 77 308 393
- Like on Facebook
- Follow on Instagram
- Operating hours
11AM – 3AM daily
